FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

1.What does EE lighting mean?

Energy Efficient Lighting is dictated by the light emission versus power consumption of various lamps.
• In residential applications, a lamp is considered energy efficient when its luminous efficacy is greater than 45 lumens per circuit watt.

• A circuit-watt is the power consumed in lighting circuits by lamps, their associated control gear and power correction equipment.

• Luminous efficacy is a measure of how effective a lamp is in transforming electricity into light. It is measured in lumens per watt and often referred to as ‘lamp efficacy’.

• This has become more relevant to the domestic user due to Part L of the Building Regulations 200, 2010 edition , which came into force in October 2010. It states:

·Table 40, of the proposed domestic building services compliance guide states:

a) In the areas affected by the building work, provide low energy light fittings(fixed lights or lighting units) that number not less than three per four of all the light fittings in the main dwelling spaces of those areas(excluding infrequently accessed space used for storage, such as cupboards and wardobes)

Typical energy efficient lamps are linear and compact fluorescents, cold cathode, metal halide, sodium and some LED's.

2.Are LED’s the only EE option?

The main sources of energy efficient lighting are compact fluorescents ad LEDs, although metal halide, and cold cathode are also sometimes used. Please follow this link to the Light IQ ‘Green’ section which helps to explain the pro’s and con’s of each lamp type. Depending on the effect you desire, your budget and size of your home, you will want to use different lamp types.

3.What are the rules on EE lighting in the home?

To be EE compliant according to the building regs, 75% of the lighting in your home must be EE. Infrequently accessed areas such as garages, cupboards and wardrobes do not count towards this.

4.Is a lamp the same as a bulb?

Yes. In lighting design we refer to the ‘bulb’ as a lamp. A floor standing or table lamp is referred to either a fitting or a desk/floor light.

5.How can I light my artwork?

Pictures which are well lit make dramatic focal points. The options for lighting pictures are often predetermined by the style of the room, as well as the scope for installing such lighting and wiring. Considerations should include the style of the painting and its surface texture as well as the depth and finish of the frame. Traditional interiors and rooms where ceiling-mounted lighting may not be an option will benefit from wall mounted picture lights. An understated but effective way to light a picture is from the ceiling, using recessed directional spotlights. The height of the ceiling, the size of picture and its position on the wall will affect the placement of fittings and our design service will be able to guide you. The ultimate tool to light artwork is a ‘Framing Projector,’ it is custom installed so that light is projected only on the artwork and there is no overspill of light to the frame. The effect is that the picture seems to glow subtly.

6.What does IP rating mean?

"IP" stands for Ingress Protection - it is a code that defines the resistance of a luminaire to the ingress of solid particles and water. The IP rating code has the following format: "IPxy", where x and y are numbers varying from 0 to 8 which respectively define the resistance to solid particles and water. The higher the number, the higher the protection rating. For example, a typical luminaire for interior use is IP20 rated, while a luminaire in a bathroom in proximity of a bath or shower has a typical rating of IP44; an outdoor uplight has a typical minimum rating of IP65, while a pool luminaire will have an IP rating of IP68. For more details, please refer to the table you can find at the following link http://www.lightiq.com/prodbath_zone1t3.php. Sometimes a third number may be included in the ingress protection code, indicating the resistance to impact; this is essential when luminaires are installed in areas where the resistance against accidental or intentional damage (vandalism) is of high importance (prisons, sport halls, certain schools and public areas, etc.)

7.What is the difference between Dichroic and reflector lamps?

All tungsten and tungsten halogen lamps used in downlights, spotlights or similar luminaires incorporate a reflector at the back of the light source that allows concentrating the light on a beam as opposed to diffuse it in all directions. Originally this reflector was created by coating the back of the lamp with an aluminium layer. However, because the tungsten and halogen lamps generate a lot of heat, aluminium reflectors concentrate and project this heat in the light beam. This in most cases is a disadvantage as the heat could damage the illuminated surfaces in the long term (e.g. an artwork, a curtain, etc.), if the lamp is not sufficiently far from the objects themselves.

To overcome this problem, dichroic reflectors were developed: these are designed with special materials/filters that reflect light but only a small percentage of the heat generated, while most of this is transmitted through the reflectorto the back of the lamp. As a consequence, the heat in the beam of light is much lower and the side effects more contained. However, because the heat is dissipated in the void at the back of the luminaire, care should be taken to allow enough clearance around the fitting in the void: if this space is not available because of proximity to a timber joist or insulation materials, dichroic lamps should not be specified as the surfaces in proximity of the luminaire would be exposed to a serious danger of fire.

8.What is the difference between transformers,drivers, and ballasts?

A transformer is an electrical or electronic component required by low voltage lamps in order for these to operate correctly. A typical transformer for lighting applications converts the supply voltage from 230V (mains voltage in residential buildings throughout Europe) to 12V, which is the typical voltage required by tungsten halogen lamps. A ballast or control gear performs a similar function of a transformer, but it also incorporates additional electrical and electronic components required by other types of lamps in order for these to operate correctly. A control gear is required by linear and compact fluorescent lamps, metal halide lamps, cold cathode lamps and LEDs. In the case of the LEDs the control gear is more commonly called a driver. The secondary or output voltage of the ballast varies depending on the specific type of lamp it is serving.

9.What is a driver?

A driver is an electronic component similar to a transformer, required by most LEDs for their correct functioning. Please also refer to the following questions: “what is the difference between transformers, drivers, and ballasts?”, “can you dim LEDs? How?” and “how do LEDs have to be wired?”.

10.Can you dim fluorescents? And if so how?

Fluorescents can be dimmed providing the correct ballasts (see also question "What is the difference between transformers, drivers, and ballasts?") is installed and it is compatible with the lighting control system dimming the related circuit. Similarly as per the LED lamps, there are several ways of dimming fluorescents. The most common dimming methods for fluorescents are 1-10v and Dali. All of these dimming methods require an extra set of cables from the lighting control system to the fluorescents ballast: in addition to the cables for the power supply (230v), a cable for the control signal is required (extra low voltage e.g. 1-10v, Dali bus, etc.): it is important you make sure the correct wiring is provided prior to completing the installation works. As the technology is constantly evolving, new ballasts are being developed that can be dimmed via the standard dimmers adopted for the incandescent or low voltage lamps, as such not requiring any extra set of cables. Check the Light IQ website for further updates!

11.Is energy efficient lighting a legal requirement?

Energy efficient lighting in dwellings (“dwelling” means a self-contained unit designed to accommodate a single household)and buildings other than dwellings is a requirement of the Building Regulations Part L. It is a legal requirement for all new building work to comply with Building Regulations and, even when no planning permission is needed, building regulations may be. The requirement applies also to certain alterations of existing buildings. The "Building Control" office of your local Council will appoint an officer (BCO- Building Control Officer) to inspect the work at regular intervals to make sure it complies.

12.Can you dim LED's? How?

LED's can be dimmed providing the correct driver (see also question "What is the difference between transformers, drivers, and ballasts?") is installed and it is compatible with the lighting control system dimming the related circuit. Similarly as per the fluorescent lamps, there are several ways of dimming LEDs. The most common dimming methods for LEDs are 1-10v and DMX. All of these dimming methods require an extra set of cables from the lighting control system to the LED driver: in addition to the cables for the power supply (230v), a cable for the control signal is required (extra low voltage e.g. 1-10v, DMX bus, etc.): it is important you make sure the correct wiring is provided prior to completing the installation works. As the LED technology is constantly evolving, new drivers are being developed that can be dimmed via the standard dimmers adopted for the incandescent or low voltage lamps, as such not requiring any extra set of cables. Check the Light IQ website for further updates!

13.How do LED's have to be wired?

The correct way of wiring of LED's depends on the type of LED's. With the exception of LED replacement lamps for halogen downlights (GU10 and GU5.3 lamp holders), which have been recently introduced in to the market, all LEDs need a driver for their correct operation. A driver can feed either only one LED luminaire or multiple LEDs. In the second case, the vast majority of LED's currently commercially available will have to be wired in series from the driver. This means that the “+” (red wire) of the driver will have to be connected to the “+” terminal (red wire) of the first LED, while the “-“ terminal (black wire) of the first LED will have to be wired to the “+” (red wire) of the following LED, and so on until the last LED, which will have the “-“ connected to the black wire of the driver. A series connection ensures that the current is kept constant across all LEDs. Note that there are many different types of drivers available, of different currents and loads, some of them dimmable, others not. Always make sure the driver adopted is compatible with the number and types of LEDs installed. Check the product sheets for technical details of the LED's. Also refer to the Light IQ product catalogues for a schematic diagram of LED wiring.

14.What is a fire rated downlight?

A fire rated downlight is a recessed luminaire that integrates a fire resistant can or ring of intumescent material in the portion of the luminaire concealed in the ceiling void. In case of fire in the space below the luminaire, the high temperature will cause the intumescent material of the can or ring to expand and fully seal the installation hole of the downlight (ceiling cut-out), thus assuring the original fire resistance characteristics of the ceiling. Fire rated downlights are an alternative to standard downlights and fire hoods where these are required, and, although more expensive than standard downlights, they generate a saving in the installation cost. It is important to select good quality fire rated downlights as there are many cheap alternatives available on the market which should only be fitted with open lamps or lamps with a maximum rating of 35w. These not only limit the flexibility in the choice of the lamp, but may create a fire risk if the incorrect type of lamp is inserted. Most people in fact assume they can replace the lamp with a standard 50w version available from all retail shops, which will cause the downlight to overheat, thus creating a potential hazard in years to come when the lamp needs replacing.